Cooling system Mods

[timsrv]

Yes, those can be quite a problem to get out. What typically makes them seize is corrosion, gunk, and other crap that's in the threads. Applying heat can work wonders as it softens those materials and can allow it to break free. The trick is getting enough heat but not getting too much. A propane torch would probably not get it hot enough, but acetylene could potentially destroy the head (if you're not careful). That being said, I've always used acetylene for things like this with good results. The plug is steel and the head is aluminum, so you'll want to focus the energy on the steel plug. As it heats, the aluminum will also expand a bit more than the steel, so this can also help loosen the bond. If you've already stripped the Allen, then twisting it hard enough might also be an issue. If that's the case, I'd probably weld a bolt to it with a wire feed welder. Sometimes just welding a bolt to it will heat it enough, so have a wrench or socket handy and go after it as soon as the weld sets (while it's still smoking hot).

If you don't have the equipment and/or the confidence, then it might make more sense to take it to a professional welder and pay him to remove (would certainly be cheaper than accidentally burning a hole where you don't want). If that's a little out of reach, an alternative could be just using that front port on the filler neck. Even if yours has a sensor there already, it's a worthless sensor and it's better to just ground out the wire going to it anyhow.........then you can remove it and use that port. I've re-purposed that port on all of my vans. Tim

PS: There's also the overdrive temperature sensor and that thing is worthless too. If your van is a stick, then there'd be a plug in that port as well (same potential problems as with removing the other plug).

[swamptony]

Yes, those can be quite a problem to get out. What typically makes them seize is corrosion, gunk, and other crap that's in the threads. Applying heat can work wonders as it softens those materials and can allow it to break free. The trick is getting enough heat but not getting too much. A propane torch would probably not get it hot enough, but acetylene could potentially destroy the head (if you're not careful). That being said, I've always used acetylene for things like this with good results. The plug is steel and the head is aluminum, so you'll want to focus the energy on the steel plug. As it heats, the aluminum will also expand a bit more than the steel, so this can also help loosen the bond. If you've already stripped the Allen, then twisting it hard enough might also be an issue. If that's the case, I'd probably weld a bolt to it with a wire feed welder. Sometimes just welding a bolt to it will heat it enough, so have a wrench or socket handy and go after it as soon as the weld sets (while it's still smoking hot).

If you don't have the equipment and/or the confidence, then it might make more sense to take it to a professional welder and pay him to remove (would certainly be cheaper than accidentally burning a hole where you don't want). If that's a little out of reach, an alternative could be just using that front port on the filler neck. Even if yours has a sensor there already, it's a worthless sensor and it's better to just ground out the wire going to it anyhow.........then you can remove it and use that port. I've re-purposed that port on all of my vans. Tim

PS: There's also the overdrive temperature sensor and that thing is worthless too. If your van is a stick, then there'd be a plug in that port as well (same potential problems as with removing the other plug).

Thanks, Tim! I guess I should have read more carefully as you mention that 'worthless sensor' back in the original post. I think I'll go that route! Thanks again for your help - going to go work on that now.

[Gambit]

Thanks, Tim! I guess I should have read more carefully as you mention that 'worthless sensor' back in the original post. I think I'll go that route! Thanks again for your help - going to go work on that now.

Yeah, mine was a battle to get out. But being a Manual, I had two port options and found 1 of them I was able to loosen with no heat. I believe the ones in the block will give you a more accurate reading, but not 100% sure on that.

[swamptony]

Hey Gambit thanks for chiming in - yeah I was having just as much difficulty with that second port on the block so I just went the unused sensor route. I'm getting readings in the recommended range of 180F-195F, was a hot day yesterday (100F) and with the A/C on full blast only ever made it to 192F so I was pretty happy with that. My gauge seems to work properly too, I just wanted this digital reading as a backup in case that gauge fails in the future.

[Mtn_Van]

PS: Almost forgot, Since I like AC, I have my AC amplifiers on my vans cranked down to allow my AC to run at an idle. I've wired my compressor stators (magnetic clutches) in series with the "normally closed" side of a Bosch relay. I wired the coil side of the relay to the switched side of my 220 deg temperature switch. Due to the resistance of the relay coil, to avoid potential feedback, I wired it through a diode (prevents false alarms). If engine temperature exceeds 220 deg, the relay is triggered and the AC compressor shuts down. Since my "Idle-up" VSV is still activated, when the load of the compressor is dropped the engine RPMs increase to around 1k. This makes the engine cooling fan move more air (my 86 still has the fan clutch set-up), and this helps cool the engine. As soon as the engine cools down below 220 deg, the relay closes and AC operation resumes. This prevents accidental overheating in the event I leave my engine running with the AC on (if I run into a store for something) . Due to my habits, an event such as this is rare for me, but due to Murphy's law, I actually had such a thing happen about a week after overhauling the engine in my 86. As luck would have it, I came back to the van just as my overheat alarm was starting to go off. I made the "AC limit mod" shortly after that.

PPS: The above description of the A/C cut-off/Idle-up mod is the simple explanation. The actual circuit is slightly more complicated as I needed to incorporate a 10 second timer and a capacitor to get it to function correctly. If anybody is interested in this mod, let me know and I'll identify actual components and I'll draw/post a sketch of the completed circuit.

Hi Tim, I'm new here (just saved an 86 cargo for 1K). I'm really interested in this mod if you have the time to explain further. It's commonly 100+F in the summer where I'm at; a big change from Tacoma. A high of 108-F is in the forecast for this Wednesday . I'm curious whether you think this mod or your two e-fan mod (in the hot soak thread) would be better suited for these conditions (i.e. high heat with running A/C, and driving up Cascade/Sierra Nevada mountain passes)? Thanks in advance!

[timsrv]

Hi Tim, I'm new here (just saved an 86 cargo for 1K). I'm really interested in this mod if you have the time to explain further. It's commonly 100+F in the summer where I'm at; a big change from Tacoma. A high of 108-F is in the forecast for this Wednesday . I'm curious whether you think this mod or your two e-fan mod (in the hot soak thread) would be better suited for these conditions (i.e. high heat with running A/C, and driving up Cascade/Sierra Nevada mountain passes)? Thanks in advance!

Hmmmm.....I posted about this over 3 years ago, and the last one I put together was more like 4 years ago. Unfortunately I can no longer remember specific details (sorry). Guess I should have posted them back then. If/when I build another I'll document it better while it's still fresh in my mind.

Regarding e-fans vs clutch fans, there's an exchange you should read HERE. Pages 3 & 4 are the most informative. Both have merrits, but after using each extensively, I'm leaning more towards the stock clutch fan as being superior.......of course there are many variables and things that can make a difference depending on outside ambient temps, humidity, how hard you work the van, and how you configure things. YMMV.

[Mtn_Van]

Hmmmm.....I posted about this over 3 years ago, and the last one I put together was more like 4 years ago. Unfortunately I can no longer remember specific details (sorry). Guess I should have posted them back then. If/when I build another I'll document it better while it's still fresh in my mind.

Thanks, Tim. Haha I figured it was worth a shot. After many more hours reading TVT threads last night, I'm leaning towards running an e-fan in front of the clutch fan in addition to the behind the bumper heater core add-on. Hope this is a solid short-term solution until I can invest a little more time and $$ on the keeping things cool.

I was able to get the PO's last 5.5 years of service records printed out from his go-to chain auto repair shop. The kicker is the most recent service record states there was coolant detected on the plug in cylinder-1, but still has good compression (PO failed to mention this fun fact). I'm just trying to put a stop to this heating mayhem lol. The cargo only has 147k, and I'd like want to keep this head gasket issue at bay until this fall after planned vacations. Oh yeah, the PO also blew through 2 rads and 3 alts in the last 4 years. Good times!!

[Burntboot]

With knowledge of past long standing coolant problems and A/F at #1, planning on "hoping" that the head gasket will last till the fall, may be folly.
Given that its already compromised and considering that Uncle Murphy is ALWAYS lurking nearby, you just HAVE to know that its going to ballistically fail in the middle of god-for-saken no-where and ruin your life.

Instead of going to all the trouble an expense of reworking the cooling system with remote coolers and electric fans, why not just invest that time and money to correcting the real problem, be done with it and go have a lovely family vacation without constantly worrying about when its going to fail

-just my 2c

[bushcat]

Found the port, have the adapter partly screwed in. Started it with my hand. Need to finish it off with a wrench but it's in a tricky spot. Will that adapter sit flush?

[bushcat]

Looks like the PO installed a fan on the front of the radiator with a dial to control it. It's hard to say if it works or not. IMG_0677.jpgIMG_0676.jpgIMG_0675.jpg

[Vanyz]

How's the progress on this mod?

[bushcat]

Hi Tim, what type of metal did you use for this scoop? I don't know a lot about the various metals out there. Is this something I can purchase at Lowe's? Do you need special tools to bend it or attach the scoop?

Thanks

Here's some pics of the scoop I made to direct more air up through the big radiator:

[timsrv]

Hi Tim, what type of metal did you use for this scoop? I don't know a lot about the various metals out there. Is this something I can purchase at Lowe's? Do you need special tools to bend it or attach the scoop?

Thanks

It's just galvanized steel flashing commonly found at hardware and home improvement stores. It's often used in roofing/general purpose applications and it's sold in rolls of varying widths. I folded it over itself and flattened it with a hammer. I shaped it as required to fit my needs and then drilled/riveted it to hold the desired positions. I used the mud flap brackets to mount it along with a couple of 90° angle brackets to mount the sides. Although the metal is thin and pliable, it becomes fairly rigid when bent like this and mounted. Tim

[bushcat]

Thanks Tim, that's useful knowledge. Did you notice an improvement? I was heading up the sierras in 80-85 degree weather and my temp started to climb to around 192-194. This is after I did the head gasket with OEM parts. I guess I have post overheating anxiety. I'm also worried the scoop may pick up water or mud because I'm often on trails that contain both. Have you experience any issues with that? I assume muddy water wouldn't be too big of an issue if I rinse after.

[timsrv]

If you're working the van hard and/or it's hot outside I'd consider 194° normal. In ideal conditions it should run in the 180° - 190° range, but getting a bit hotter during extreme conditions is completely fine. When it's hot and you're running AC it's not uncommon to see temp spikes up to 210° for brief periods (like getting stuck at a traffic light or going up a steep hill). If however it continues to climb beyond that I'd start taking action to prevent it from rising higher (shutting off AC is the 1st thing). If you're climbing a steep hill on a hot day with the AC on, as long as it stabilizes below 220° I'd allow it for a brief time (maybe up to 10 minutes). That's assuming of course conditions are about to change (like cresting the hill). I would not however want to see it ever get much over 220° (under any circumstances) as that could lead to more serious issues (like a blown head gasket). Tim

PS: The scoop did help, but only at speeds above 35 mph.

[iq_artwork]

Hello everyone, I’m working on my extra radiator mod. As you see on the pics the old owner didn’t connect the heater hoses and he was using this hose loop. I have never turned on the heater in the cabinet and I don’t mind keeping it this way. Can anyone tell me which hose from the loop goes to the upper part of the extra radiator and which one in the lower?

Thank you!

2A.jpg
2.jpg

Is this the right way?

1.jpg

[llamavan]

Can anyone tell me which hose from the loop goes to the upper part of the extra radiator and which one in the lower?

HERE are photos!

Gwen

[iq_artwork]

Thank you llamavan, what confused me more is I don’t know which one is the inlet pipe from the extra radiator mod, the upper or the lower part?

[timsrv]

It's just a heat exchanger so it makes no difference which hose goes where .

[iq_artwork]

Thank you very much Tim!