Unless you cut the injector harness (not recommended), you will at least need to remove the upper half of the intake manifold. If you try the search feature on the upper right corner I'm sure you'll find the answers you seek. Here's a few that come up, and there are many more. Tim
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...d-four-y-block
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...asket+manifold
https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...asket+manifold
hey 66 nova i have done 2 of the head gasket jobs and on the second one i did cut a access port in the rear bulkhead. i cant tell you how much easier it made this task. there are a few pics in here somewhere just gotta look a bit. good luck to ya it,s not as hard as it looks but it,s hard! you got this all day!
Originally Posted by joegri
thanks joe, i already cut the hole in the rear deck couple years ago to change the hoses back there. the water outlet was rotted beyond use so a friend of mine manufactured one out of aluminum. right now im changing the head gasket [ probably going to send the head out for a rebuild while its off]. i was not sure where the hidden bolts were for the lower intake. i got a photo showing where to gain access to them so tomorrow its back to work. thanks for your reply.
thanks tim, i already had the upper intake off. just couldnt find the lower bolts on the lower manifold. the pics in the links showed the access points.....back to work tomorrow. thanks
I remember doing my headgasket and having to jump on here to find out where the nuts I was missing were. The moment you realize where they are is such a nice feeling lol.
just wondering what the status of this repair is? i,m guessin 66 is waiting for the head to come back from the machine shop or parts. so nova when you get a minute let us know howz it goin! and heres a lil tip that works well for me.cuz i have a short attention span i make sure nobody is around so i can concentrate and when reassembling i use plenty of never sieze. just so in the future everything comes apart easily.just thought i,d throw that in. best of luck to ya
Well, 1966novacoupe says I also need a new exhaust manifold. 1st Toyota Parts has 1 listed for $141. (I don't have the part # and it wasn't listed on the website.)
Is the exhaust manifold the same for 2wd and 4wd. My van is a 1987 4wd Automatic.
Thanks.
"You came in that thing?... You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
At the end of THIS POST I give a list of parts and part numbers (including the manifold). All years and flavors of vans (84-89) use the same one. Tim
Thanks for the parts numbers Tim.
The machine shop notified my mechanic: "The cylinder head cannot be rebuilt because its already under minimum thickness by .033. Sometime in the past its been surfaced way more than it should have been."
So I need a new cylinder head as well. I looked at your blog and the eBay link. There is another head available here in So Cal in El Monte from CNS Motors for $325. Here is the link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Cyl...45543f&vxp=mtr
1st Toyota Parts .com has a head listed for $612.11, but it might be a ghost part, as Steve (my mechanic) called Toyota yesterday and was told cylinder heads are NLA from Toyota.
We are thinking about one of these other outfits, probably CNS since they are here in So Cal.
Any thoughts or ideas are welcome...
Thanks!
"You came in that thing?... You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Other than having the rocker assembly installed, it looks exactly like the head I got. I see it lists it as a "new aftermarket" head, so it's probably safe to assume it was manufactured in China. According to the pics it doesn't have the OD temp sensor port drilled, but the boss is there so If need be you could always drill & tap like I did. I would also check closely for assembly errors (refer to my blog). Overall I was impressed with my new aftermarket head. Machine work was beautiful but it did annoy me having to drill & tap the OD sensor port. The ports that were there were plugged and a permanent glue/sealer was used (had to drill them out). The use of old valve spring seats that were improperly installed was also annoying, but that was easily remedied.
Finding a quality rebuild is also an option, but there's such a huge variable in the quality of parts. Rebuilders typically won't disclose if the head has been cracked & welded & I would never want to install one of those. Then there's the ones rebuilt by ignorant & or uncaring shops (I've seen those too). Overall, I think I'd rather take my chances with new aftermarket. Another option might be finding a salvage yard head & have the machine shop rebuild it. Just my $.02. Tim
PS: If you go new aftermarket, assuming you have a machine shop you trust, you may want to have them evaluate it before assembling your engine. IE: verify valve seals, guides, spring seats, spring tension, stem seals & other machined surfaces. While its there you may also want them to add a sensor port or 2 (you never know when you might want to add a temperature gauge or a thermostat for your aftermarket fans).
Thanks for all the great advice Tim. looks like we are going to go with CNS in El Monte.
Will keep you updated as things progress.
"You came in that thing?... You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
thanks tim for the info. ill be doing the work myself, which means checking the cyl.head assy before installing. also ill drill and tap the head for the electric fan switch so i dont see a problem there either. the el monte head comes with a new rocker assy....another bonus...i did find a used head complete for $100. but there is no guarantee it will be rebuildable or that it hasnt been rebuilt in the past....any way ill probably go with the el monty head....ill keep everyone posted as to the outcome.....Thanks for all the great advice Tim. looks like we are going to go with CNS in El Monte.
Will keep you updated as things progress.
just wondering what the status of this repair is? i,m guessin 66 is waiting for the head to come back from the machine shop or parts. so nova when you get a minute let us know howz it goin! and heres a lil tip that works well for me.cuz i have a short attention span i make sure nobody is around so i can concentrate and when reassembling i use plenty of never sieze. just so in the future everything comes apart easily.just thought i,d throw that in. best of luck to ya
ya im a big fan of anti seize compound, especially where alloys are mixed iron/aluminum etc... also when im working on a vehicle im not completely familiar with i take pics, lots of pics....right now im up to around 150....just so i know where all the brackets, vacuum lines wires etc. go while im reassembling the vehicle.....ill be ordering the new head in the morning....ill keep everyone posted
The new head will not come with exhaust studs. Rather than swapping them over from the old head, I would recommend putting new ones in. The original ones can still be ordered from Toyota, but it bothers me to see the stud in the back breaking all the time. As a result I decided to try some tougher studs that Toyota uses on some of their more modern vehicles. Here's a quote from another thread where this has been discussed:
Since you're getting new studs, might as well top them off with all new nuts. They are Toyota #90116-10063. TimOne thing worth noting, I have never removed an exhaust manifold from a van with over 150k miles on it that didn't have a crack like you describe or didn't have that rear stud broken off. Toyota makes hardened exhaust manifold studs that are supposed to be better than the ones they used on our vans (they are black instead of shiny silver color). This last time around when I rebuilt my engine I used these studs (Toyota part #90116-10150) as they are supposed to hold up better. Of course it will only take about 20 years and/or ~200k miles before I know for sure. At any rate, I figured they couldn't be any worse. I've often wondered if the manifold only cracks AFTER it loses that stud, or if it will break regardless. If I'm still alive in 20 years and if that stud holds up......... I guess I'll know then
. Tim
Forum Newbie
I've started moving forward with solving my van overheating issues.
Discovered that one of my cylinders has broken pushrods!
(or is it a broken valve lifter?)
Could this be causing my..
- air/exhaust gasses in cooling system
- loss of power on startup
- rough idle without revving engine
- ticking/sputtering/shaking
I have access to a shop with a lift. Would it be best to just try and pull the engine out?
At this point I'm going to assume I'll need to replace the HG + push rods, and everything else in Tim's guide.
There should be a pushrod sitting on top of that lifter and if it is missing then yes, it would have a pretty significant effect on how the engine runs.
But before jumping the gun and tearing the whole thing apart.
I'd be tempted to pull the rocker cover and if nothing further appears damaged, fish out any broken parts, install a new pushrod(s), valve cover gasket and do an oil change and see if it will live for another day.
For what it's worth, I have seen this exact scenario transpire on a 4Y delivery van, so miracles do happen.
Worst case scenario, you waste a day and <$100
Best case scenario, you're back up and running.
You will also have a much better chance of properly diagnosing any issues that do remain.
Replacing head gasket. Any suggestion as to what we should be using for sealent like Permatex or should we using nothing?
Thanks guys
MyToy
Headgaskets should be installed dry. Both surfaces should be smooth and clean. I like to use a die grinder with surface conditioning pads to make things shiny, then wipe with lacquer thinner and paper towels until the paper towels remain clean https://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/...2219#post12219. Also a good idea to check the mating surfaces with a straight edge and to check the area between valves for cracks.
Other gaskets can be installed dry too, but I like to use a very thin coat of Toyota FIPG on the ones that seal coolant. Tim
Thanks Tim!!
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