That's awesome! What did you find out regarding the starter circuit?
That's awesome! What did you find out regarding the starter circuit?
Ok folks, I've got an alternator pickle. Mine went, as was expected, due to power steering fluid running amok. I pulled it out and not only were the brushes shot but the fella at the alternator shop said the post running up the the core had only moments of life left in it. No one in this next of the woods had anything to rebuild it themselves and so, for what it would cost me anyway, I ordered a remanufactured job, which I just got in today (Denso reman, looked fine to me).
But it doesn't fit. The holder for the bottom bolt is somehow too narrow. And now I've got my grease and frustration all over the reman. Am I missing something or did they get me the wrong alternator? The number on the alternator is A8193, which in a google search seemed to align with my van, a 1986 cargo. I double checked my van serial number just to be sure that mine was sold as an 86 (yes, I have a "G" in my code).
Any help or experience on this one would be wonderful. Tim? Llamavan? I'm tempted to set the darn thing alight... As much as I love it.
If it looks the same and it's a Denso, then it should fit. The factory alternator mount has a bushing in it that will slide to accommodate alternators that may be a bit smaller. I'm guessing your old alternator was smaller in this mount area and the bushing just needs to be knocked back to a position to accommodate your new alternator. Here's a picture, you can see the bushing in the front end of the mount. Tim
Tim, you are a gentleman and a scholar. Thanks for the quick response. This was one of my suspicions but the bushing wasn't moving with my initial, um, persuasions. I will attempt further, and perhaps more intelligent, coaxing tomorrow when I get a chance. Thanks for the pic etc. I'll post my news.
Awesome thread!
I have an issue where my voltage only comes up to 13v while running. They van barely has enough juice to start. Earlier in the week it started fine but died on the hwy due to low battery.
My battery is newish, and tested good. The alternator is 1 year old and tested good.
Did I read somewhere that the ECU is used for Voltage regulation?????
Maybe I'll run a wire from the sense terminal to the battery.
Other ideas?
The ECU is not part of our charge systems. 13V is higher than a fully charged battery would be on it's own, so the alternator is doing something.........just not enough. My guess is the alternator has one or more open diodes. It could also be a bad connection somewhere........possibly on the sense wire. If you have an extra alternator I'd probably throw it on there for testing. If you don't have an extra, this might be a good time to pick one up.
I'm running a CS144 alternator since last february.
I found this:
"if BAT terminal does not get 12v Alternator will not make juice"
I found a loose nut here.
I guess when i puled it for testing earlier in the week i did not notice how loose it was. Time will tell if this is the root issue.
I cleaned the carbon tightened it up and now have 14V!
Question:
Do the 2 wires circled go to the battery or do they split off to supply power some where else???
When I upgraded the Alternator I ran a heavy welding cable from Alt to Battery and a Heavy Ground Strap.
Do I need the 2 wires in question? Or are they Redundant?
My battery terminals have become cluttered with various bypasses and accessories. I'd love to clean it up & Add a heavy fuse block.
Hi everyone. I'm having the same issue trying to get a new alternator to fit into the bracket. I read the thread and checked out the bracket, but could not get it to budge. In the picture there seems to be a space between the bushing lip and the bracket, where as mine is pushed in so it doesn't seem to have a space. Would it go in further? How could I try to push it in? I only need a mm more clearance or so... Thank you. Hannah
this was the old alternator
Last edited by Wonderwagoneina; 11-08-2016 at 04:56 PM.
I had the same issue, and used a grinder to get the clearance needed. Hope someone else can shed light on this.
Thanks for the reply! That's what I was thinking. which did you grind?
I got my brushes off and one of them is sitting lower than the other they are not slopped away like the picture of the "brushes on atf" picture.
**update** i had my alternator tested at two different places and it passed at both, i am still curious about the different sizes of the brushes??
Last edited by Dirtlivingston; 02-27-2017 at 02:51 PM.
Those brushes are worn, but IMO probably not worn enough to cause an output issue......yet. If that alternator wasn't working then I'd look very closely at the diodes. Look for signs of overheating and check the stems to be sure all the solder joints are still intact....................or maybe it's the harness??? Tim
At this point im going to put it back together and mess with my battery. Im hoping its not the alternator harness i asked at a toyota dealership today and they told me they dont sell individual pieces id have to get an entire harness for $2000 which kinda blew my mind since i had a part number?? Another intresting thing i noticed was after i loosened the 14mm bolt holding the alternator bracket i had coolant leaking, after i tightened it back up no more leak, is this correct? Also is there any chance this could be the belt??
OK, I read this Thread end to end, and reread parts of it.
I've seen several references to the warning lights going "Christmas tree", and the implication is either a low battery or a problem alternator?Its not clear to me.
My warning lights will flash on occasion, and sometimes stay on for a bit, then go off. Sometimes it will stay on longer and sometimes revving the engine will make them go off but its not consistent.
So can someone explain what the flashing lights really mean? its clearly intermittent and I was assuming I had a short of possibly a dying ECU box somewhere, or dirty connections or ground on that unit.
Then I saw the first "Christmas Tree" mention of an alternator issue, and here I am.
I've only had this project for less than 2 weeks, and part of the evolution is to make sure its reliable after 32 years of abuse by hack mechanics. So far its not as bad as my 87 Samurai that a guy took apart and painted, then half assed reassembled it.. (oh the stories.. and the many ty-wraps...) I have THAT one as reliable is its going to get. This van needs to get the same treatment...
So the ask is, what is the deal with flashing Warning indicators?
Last edited by outlawmws; 02-23-2019 at 10:00 AM. Reason: sp
Could be one thing, or multiple things happening. Most likely though it's a weak/ worn alternator. Get the multi meter out and investigate. If it's reading below 13V at the battery terminals while running, then the investigation will continue...Originally Posted by outlawmws
OK, I read this Thread end to end, and reread parts of it.
I've seen several references to the warning lights going "Christmas tree", and the implication is either a low battery or a problem alternator?
My warning lights will flash on occasion, and sometimes stay on for a bit, then go off. Sometimes it will stay on longer and sometimes revving the engine will make them go off but its not consistent.
So can someone explain what the flashing lights really mean? its clearly intermittent and I was assuming I had a short of possibly a dying ECU box somewhere, or dirty connections or ground on that unit.
Then I saw the first "Christmas Tree" mention of an alternator issue, and here I am.
I've only had this project for less than 2 weeks, and part of the evolution is to make sure its reliable after 32 years of abuse by hack mechanics. So far its not as bad as my 87 Samurai that a guy took apart and painted, then half assed reassembled it.. (oh the stories.. and the many ty-wraps...) I have THAT one as reliable is its going to get. This van needs to get the same treatment...
So the ask is, what is the deal with flashing Warning indicators?
It typically ends up being the alternator though. There are several components to your charge system you need to go over and verify are good.
Alternator- verify it is charging between 13.5 to 14 V
Alternator plug. These are a known wear item on these vans
Fusible links, yup they cause issues-
Battery- verify it's good and taking a charge
Charge circuit. Theres a 7.5A fuse in the fuse box that relays to the gauge cluster.
ALL connection points should be gone through to verify solid connections. Use of di-electric/ bulb grease helps here.
Based on what you described though, it really sounds like the alt is going, bad connection or the battery is weak. Multi meter first then check other points.
That was pretty much my game plan, although the fusable links are not something I'd typically look at unless it simply went dead.
I connected the DVM to a hot lead (the emergency brake wire) and monitored while I went Yard sailing today. the lights flashed monumentally 2-3 times adn when I caught the drop it was to like 2-3V. no miss and the engine just hummed. Very off.
I suspect the alternator I believe the PO said it had been replaced, but with what...
As you said, diagnostics; and make sure all connection are "Clean Bright and Tight"
So the answer is: a wild fluctuation of voltage DOES cause the warning lights to flash on.
Is that intended by Toyota?
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