Need to lift that rear end? Come on in!
The quickest option for the front is to simply crank the torsion bars and create some lift~ on up to 2 inches or so if you desire that much heighth! Matching the back is a bit more involved.
So for those of us who were looking to fit some bigger shoes on these 4WD vans there have been multiple threads on what was used, but no thread geared towards the HOW. There are several options. New Springs from (insert vehicle/ aftermarket source ~Moog CC845 Aerostars are popular- cut a coil or three off), Mr Gasket spacers top and bottom for roughly a 1-1/2" lift and what I opted for - the Daystar Spacer part # KT09100BK, designed for an early 90's 4Runner.
I went the Daystar route for two reasons. First, lets face it... it's economical. Second, I like the idea of the spacer being on the TOP of the coil ONLY... less likely to spit out the oem spacer on the bottom perch (Not a lot of meat there! Adding a spacer imo makes it easier to mush it out over the little perch there is. Either way, the old coils are coming out no matter what.
The quickest option for the front is to simply crank the torsion bars and create some lift~ on up to 2 inches or so if you desire that much heighth! Matching the back is a bit more involved.
So if your tired of dragging your butt around then this write up is for you!
Tools needed:
Wheel removal:
Floor jack
Jack stands
wheel chocks for front~ optional… but safety first for me!
1/2" impact or breaker bar
21 mm socket
Coil Spring removal:
1/2" impact wrench (Yes, it is possible without it... but it's far easier with one! Harbor freight sells these for very little coin guys, the earthquake one is great) or 1/2" breaker bar and ratchet
19mm socket
17mm socket
12mm socket
Pry bar
Hard rubber mallet or hammer
Coil Spring lift: (tools for this may vary pending on lift type. At the bare minimum a Sawzall, or other cutting device of your choice for whatever you opt to use lift wise. Bandsaw, grinder, etc.)
Vice or large clamps will be handy and a sturdy bench
Tape measure
Shock removal/ installation:
14mm socket/ wrench
Large vice grips (rounded is best)
Flat blade screw driver (size #2 or so)
Materials needed:
Rags
PB Blaster or other loose juice of your choice
Lift device of your choosing (I am using the Daystar Spacer mentioned above in this write up)
Shocks sized for your lift (I am installing 2wd 2000 Ford f-150 shocks, Sensa brand part# 1214-0190. They measured out perfect for the additional height of the spacer).
Possibly some new rubber bushings for your sway bar. LOOK at yours before you get started, if they need to be replaced, have them on hand! (Mine happened to be fine)
That sums up the tools and the parts you will need!
Step 1. Use the floor jack and raise the rear of the vehicle from the rear differential. Place jack stands under the link mounts ahead of the tires (see pic below). Leave the jack in place! Use the 21mm and impact to remove both wheels and gradually drop the vehicle on the jack stands. STOP. Don't drop the jack all the way just yet, let the vehicle rest on the jack stands but leave a bit of tension on the jack until the rest of the other items necessary for removal are loose. Standing in a SAFE spot~ give the van a good shove and make sure it's STABLE, just to make sure it won't fall off the jack stands and crush your head. Always a good practice not to die while wrenching on your junk. 
Attachment 8220
Step 2. Use the 12mm socket and disconnect BOTH sides of the rear sway bar from the axle housing. Might need some pb blaster here. Now is a good time to r&r those bushings if they are toast... roll the sway bar up and out of the way.
Attachment 8221
Attachment 8222
Step 3. Use the 17mm and remove the bolt's from the bottom shock mounts on both sides. Might need some pb blaster here also if they are rusted up. Unless you have a helper, use the rounded vice grips and clamp it on the fat side of the shock, then grab your 14mm and remove the nuts on the upper mounts (see pic below). Let the shock fall out and discard it.
Attachment 8223
Attachment 8229
Step 4. Grab that 19mm and remove the bolt holding your lateral arm to the axle housing. Looking from the back it connects to the right side of the housing (see pic below). Pay special attention to the way the washers and bushings come off. They will go back the exact same way. You may need to use some more penetrating oil, the pry bar/ rubber hammer or a combination of the two to get the link unstuck if it has never been off before. One good whack broke mine loose. Once it is loose move it up and out of the way... time to drop the axle.
Attachment 8224
Attachment 8225
Step 5. Now you can gradually drop the axle down low enough to get the old coils out. It's ok to put some of your weight on the drum to help drop the axle a bit more if needed to remove the coil... it comes out towards the back of the van the easiest take the insulators with them. Remove both sides.
Attachment 8226
Step 6. Prep your spacers or new coils.
If you are installing new coils, there is going to be some trial and error involved. GO SLOW and don't cut off to much! Best to start with a coil and a half and work your way down from that.
If you are using the spacer method then grab the coil and insulators and make your way over to the work bench. Cut the spacer/s to fit. Again, I am using the Daystar spacers mentioned above. I had to take a sliver out to match the old upper insulator diameter so they would fit the existing springs. Here is a sample of side by side:
Attachment 8227
Attachment 8228
Measure the difference and get cutting. I had to take about 3/8" out of mine to get them to fit the tops of the coils... Once these are prepped, you can re-insert them!
Step 7. Re-install the coils and shocks with added height to them! TIP: I found it mandatory to aid the axle in drooping a bit more by using the shock mount location as leverage with my foot while sliding the spring back into place. You can also use a 2x4 to rest on the axle and stepping on it. A friend to help here would be best, but when your a lone wolf like me (fancy way of saying all my friends were working), you do what ya gotta do. 
Once the springs are in on both sides you can raise the axle back up with the floor jack and re-assemble the sway bar links and lateral arm in that order.
NOTE for lateral arm: The FSM says to assemble the arm in the correct order in which it was removed and leave the NUT LOOSE until the van is dropped back on the ground and the suspension cycled a couple times. Then tighten the nut to 43 ft. lbs. (I tapped mine a few times with the impact, close enough for me... but if you want to torque it down, then there it is.
Last but not least, install the new shocks of your choosing... make sure they will accommodate the new height and cycle fully. The ones I used had a 9.75" stroke, more than enough to droop or bump up.
Attachment 8230
Step 9. Go over all of your work and verify things are right! Put the wheels/ tires back on and tighten them. Raise the van up off the jack stands, remove them and drop the van down to the ground. Cycle the rear suspension a few times and tighten the lateral arm nut! Verify your work again and take it for a test drive... and admire your new rub free lift. Here is where mine sat after the job was complete. It matched the lift I had to give in the front to clear the larger tires I put on.... quite the improvement over the old stock suspension too! Rides like a truck now.
Attachment 8231
Note on the load sensing proportion valve for the rear brakes. If you lifted more than 3/4" you will need to adjust this. You can either build a bracket to move the attachment area on the axle UP an equal amount of your lift, or give the wand a small tweak to compensate. I will grab a few pics later, or do a search for the LSPV and make your own judgement.
Heres a pic of the end of the wand on your axle that would need to be moved up:
Attachment 8232
Hope this helps!
Flecker
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by Burntboot
