I think some of them are fuel lines, some are water lines. I don't know. I was just grabbing at hoses. No problem so far. But they are flexible. I'm worrying about them hardening and cracking.
Anywho, I'm gonna do a lot of tests and clean some stuff today after work. And take advantage of the long weekend, will post tonight hopefully.
Ok Tim, I got everything taken apart and the first thing I did was jump the connector and I think the idle changed a little. It's even worse now. What was the point of that? The check engine light didn't come on and don't know I was expecting to happen.
Ok, sun's going down here's what I've done so far. I took the valve covers off because my new valve cover gasket came in. It's looking good. I cleaned the air intake throttle body. I checked for vacuum leaks via propane enrichment, put a tube over a propane torch and check for change in engine idle. Attempted to take the fuel filter off, it's pretty jammed up, sprayed deep creep on it and waiting. And attempted to take EGR valve off as well but it's impossible for me to get to it. I took the cold start injector off and sprayed it out with carb cleaner and brushed it off and the hole it goes into.
Anyone know how to get to the EGR valve? That nut on the base seems impossible to get to without cutting into the wall or removing the intake manifold.
more later.....
OK, last night Grant P. came over and we put our heads together and collectively found a vacuum leak on the new PCV valve I put in. So we smeared it in Black RTV sealant and and decided to wait overnight because that HAD to be the problem.
Well the leak IS fixed but didn't fix the problem. So I Decided to do a compression test like I should have earlier, and they seem fine.
Cyl #1 @ avg 167psi
Cyl #2 @ avg 162psi
Cyl #3 @ avg 168psi
Cyl #4 @ avg 160psi
I don't know what they are supposed to be, but there isn't a dramatic drop in pressure between cylinders so I'm fine right?
And also I had noticed and mentioned before I heard a sucking and hissing noise from what seems to be the back of the engine. Is there a vacuum hose on the back of the engine that I missed? And I feel like I'm just talking to myself here anyone got any suggestions for me? Comments? Experience?
I think the brake booster line goes behind the engine, right by the hose of death, but don't hold me to it. Also, when I had my power steering lines off (the two that connect to the power steering pump and look identical, maybe 1/8inch) my van ran like crap and I could hear it sucking. this probably won't help you, but it's what i got
-also, what happened with the intake hose? it's good? because that one definately cracks and sucks too.
-aaron
Well I replaced the brake booster line that I could see but I can't see where it terminates. And the intake hoses is showing signs of crack, very very miniscule though. No effect with propane testing.
I think I'll start to post how-to's from what I've done so far because I haven't found any help directly related to certain procedures on TV's out there. Like I've never checked or even heard of what an EGR valve is before. And someone would say "check the EGR valve" and I'm just scratching my head. So I started matching info from other vehicles and figuring it out my self. This could help someone else in the future who doesn't know much about cars or TV's in general.
Last edited by Cornato; 05-28-2011 at 04:21 PM.
OK sun's going down, wrapping stuff up. Tried to test the TPS with voltmeter and crap, but the instructions are only for certified mechanics or electricians. My Dad is both and still couldn't understand WTF they were saying. So I'm just gonna try and put it back on in the original position and buy a new one just to be sure. I think it might be the problem but need to know how to adjust it. I don't know what else to do. I need instructions with laymans term, very easy to understand. I'm smart but don't have all that much mechanical knowledge. I'm just getting frustrated and tired.
I'm going drinking.
OK, after a full day away from the van I've calmed down a little and began to review.
Sorry if I seemed angry or ungrateful, I appreciate all the help ya'll have given me. It's just frustrating when I can't fix something right away. This never happens to me, I'm always "johnny on the spot" with repairs.
I've been looking over threads from TVP and this site and have a few more things to test and replace. I ordered a new TPS, throttle body gasket, thermostat, O2 sensor, and coil.
I found an easy way to adjust the TPS on TVP. And I'll do it all this this weekend as I'd rather knock it all out at once. So hopefully I'll have an update on saturday.
Long weekend was supposed to be fun. Not for me.
cornato i,ve been painfully watching this thread and it touches a nerve in me cuz i too have had some issues over the years with these vans but, some how they get worked out eventully.for me i dont trust a mech in a shop cuz they could say "it cant be fixed" but you and i know better! you,ve spent alot of time and money to fix ,er and no results. i know it,s hard but maybe you could seek out a real pro in yer area and bite the bullet n have them fix it.the worst thing that it could be is "it cant be fixed" at least you,d be back to this spot in time.it,s frustrating i know. "nobody can hear you scream when yer in outer space" just a thought. best of luck to ya. i feel yer pain man.
Re: Van sputter and hesitation after hauling a##.
After 2 sleepless nights of searching forums for the dumbed down version of how to check Diagnosis Codes. I checked it today and got the following:
5 blinks
Pause
6 blinks
Pause
11 blinks
Ok, so what does this mean? I see people saying they have code 23, 51, and other bigger numbers. Mine doesn't. I'm gonna still try and find a code decipher thing. any help would help.
Sounds like you have a bad TPS and a bad o2 sensor. Not sure about the code 6 but that could be there from trying to start with the igniter or something disconnected. Here's a link to the what these codes mean: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/c...gons-all-years
Before replacing stuff though you should clear codes, run it, then check them again. Then only address the ones that come back. Having a bad o2 sensor and a bad TPS will certainly make it run like crap. Tim
Ok, just reset them and will wait til tomorrow after work to check again. I already ordered a new TPS, igniter, O2 sensor and throttle body gasket. So those should take care of any codes I have I think.
Those were the last things I could think to fix anyway.
Maybe and update tomorrow or this weekend.
I join the Navy officially this Friday! Need to get the van running right before I leave him.
The o2 sensor is straight forward. The TPS will need to be adjusted to spec when installed. Just remember a new but mis-adjusted TPS is no better than a bad TPS. Tim
Here's a video I took the last time I replaced a TPS. Enjoy
Great video Tim! Hopefully my TPS will come in tomorrow so I can do it all on Saturday. Shouldn't be to hard. I just imagine the igniter may be a little difficult to get to. But I read a thread on an easy way to get to it so I'm not worried.
I'm about to check for codes again then head off to MEPS to determine my future.
Next time you hear from me I'll be gov't property.
Sidenote: Great sound track to the video. Haha.
I think that's great you're joining the military. I encouraged all of my kids to join as I think it's a great way to learn self discipline and get a start on a career. I was an Air Force guy and my oldest daughter decided to go that route as well (she is currently a USAF SSGT). My youngest daughter is in the USMC and just completed advanced combat training OORAH! Unless your job specialty is permanent latrine duty you will most likely find you have many more job opportunities open up for you after your discharge. Plus you will have the pride of knowing you served your country.
Other than me talking I wasn't even aware the video had a soundtrack. I had to watch it again to realize I had left my radio on while I recorded it.Tim
I just got my MOS and ship date yesterday. I will be an Advanced Computer and Electronics Technician and will leave on January 11, 2012. So I got plenty of time to fix up Tex and go on some roadtrips.
I'm about to change out the 02 sensor and TPS. I also have the igniter to replace, but I don't think I want to take off the engine cover today because I don't think the igniter is the problem. So I'll just just fix the codes it's throwing.
I also had some other questions about stuff. I can start my van with a screwdriver, can take my keys out while driving. I can shift out of park with out touching the brake pedal and there's a lot of pressure when I open my gas cap. Just thoughts....
True of most of these vans now.Originally Posted by Cornato
Haven't seen this, but also only have one A/T (with low miles).
All of mine have pressure and hiss upon removing the gas cap; not sure whether you're experiencing something different or not.
Gwen
1985 5-speed window cargo van set up for llama haulin'; 345K ("Trustyvan")
1989 4WD 5-speed DLX; 410K and an odd sense of humor ("Skylervan")
Re: Van sputter and hesitation after hauling a##.
Thanks llamavan, just wondering if anyone could shed some light on that stuff.
Now to the fun stuff...
Well just changed the 02 sensor and TPS. Dialed the TPS as per Tim's instructions. Felt very good about this because those were the codes I was throwing.
The 02 sensor code went away, but the TPS code and RPM code are still hanging around. I removed the fuse like you should to reset the ECU.
Now I don't know why it is still showing the TPS code. I bought a brand new one and set it right. It feels like its running a little better, but not like it was.
So what is up with the TPS? and can the TPS connector go on both ways, like upside down? Could that be messing me up? Is the connector bad?
I'm soooo helpless....Everytime I think I've figured this out I get so excited, and it doesn't work...I get super depressed. It's not a healthy relationship right now.
Ok, just rechecked what codes mean what. And the TPS code was the 11 and it was resolved.
So the TPS is fine. But it's still blinking 5 and 6. So the 02 sensor code is still showing up and the RPM code too.
RPM code, which may be caused by the igniter failing. I'm hoping can be fixed. But why is the 02 sensor code still around? The sensor was bosch and the plug matched up right but the sensor head didn't look the same. Does that matter?
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