Any recommendations for how to deal with rusted coolant tubes? Slide something over and braze it in maybe?
Any recommendations for how to deal with rusted coolant tubes? Slide something over and braze it in maybe?
We touched on that in posts 49 & 50. If you figure something out please share with the rest of us. Tim
Hey Tim could he not just bypass this if he is not in super cold climate?
Just a thought.
MT
Oh yeah, good point.....(I see he's in Hawaii). The coolant flowing through the throttle body is just to prevent freeze-ups in cold climates. If it never freezes where you are you could simply bypass the throttle body (bypass the bypass) and not worry about it. Tim
Edit: Read further before attempting this (no longer recommended), user "MyToy" tried it and had freeze-up issues @ 94° F!
Last edited by timsrv; 11-06-2019 at 03:17 PM. Reason: bad information
What has two thumbs and loves you guys for being so awesome?
This dude. This dude right here.
Ok about ready to put this sucker back in but realized that the gasket 22271-73011 is discontinued and not in stock anywhere that I can find. Any recommendations?
Is that the one between the throttle body and the manifold?
mt
Thanks. I guess I am feeling a little bit special this week. Hopefully my lost searching skills will turn up shortly.
As for bypassing the water inlet probably was not a good idea. I bypassed them on mine just so see if they would effect my crazy idle issue going up by 300 rpm after the engine is on for more that 15 min. If you adjust idle down to 700 at that time she has a hard time to keep running within those first 10 to 15 minutes. You have to majorly feather the gas pedal.
So I said, what the heck, let me try this. No issue until I got on the highway for a while doing 85 at 32000 RPM. The van came to a stop as if I ran out of gas. I opened the lid and could not find anything wrong. 5 minutes later she started back up. Ran it again and again she dies.
When I got her home I immediately pulled of the air intake to look into the mix control. There it was ICE!!! The water bypass is to protect the mixture control from freezing in high humidity climates. I should have know, they do this all the time on non fuel injected airplanes. As the air gets sucked in to the assembly it drops in temperature and when mixed with the humidity it freezes.
So if you do bypass it and she dies you know why. Hawaii may be different. But here in Florida, it is needed.
MT
Good to know. It freezes here so I've never tried it. What was the ambient temp when yours froze?
Outside temp was 94 Deg with 99% humidity
Wow! so I think I'll edit my previous post where I said it's okay to do that in warm climatesOriginally Posted by MyToy
.
Cut them off, drill and tap for something like these is what I have done on the 22re's throttle body...Any recommendations for how to deal with rusted coolant tubes? Slide something over and braze it in maybe?
https://www.amazon.com/Vis-Fitting-S..._df_B07CWS7YHC
Last edited by timsrv; 11-06-2019 at 04:32 PM. Reason: Fixed link
Wow! so I think I'll edit my previous post where I said it's okay to do that in warm climates
Must be the humidity or something... I wouldn't ever think with the air flow these litle 4y's get that it would freeze in 90+ degrees...
Very common in aviation. As I mentioned, every aircraft that is not fuel injected (no carburetor or mixture control at all) has carburetor heat. This is part of the instrument panel where in most cases, like Cesena 172's, has a pull level like a choke. When descending you add carburetor heat, pull the dumb lever, before you freeze it. Otherwise it is a bad day
Part of the issue is the somewhat remote mounting of the throttle body. Despite the engine compartment heat it is mounted up and away from direct heat. This also why air cooled VWs had heat riser tubes on the intake. The air velocity past the throttle plate creates a considerable temperature drop. Mount the throttle plate away from a direct heat source and you will get icing. The colder the air is to begin with(such as at altitude as Mytoy noted)or the higer the humidity the worse it is. I have a '62 Bug with aftermarket single carb and intake without heat riser tubes and had this happen frequently. Especially if I didn't let it warm up.
What about a spray cleaner that doesn't require disassembly?
Would this be worth my time if I can't take the time/risk to do this rebuild just yet?
Does it come with a sticker? Everybody knows thats where the real horsepower comes from...What about a spray cleaner that doesn't require disassembly?
Would this be worth my time if I can't take the time/risk to do this rebuild just yet?
I use the cleaner when needed... it's better to take the throttle body out and just clean it though.
Last edited by Flecker; 11-09-2019 at 02:26 PM.
If it was a one day repair that didn't require grinding and potentially fixing it I'd be more inclined to do it. Right now its getting colder and rainier every day. I was going to give my van a tune up but might skip it because its too cold/humid to resin/fiberglass the center console. Spring/summer repairs.
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