I'm still working through your previous post for now. I got my analog meter working (bad fuse) and it has a 10v option but I haven't used that range yet. From your previous post

So with that current being drawn, measure the voltage across that 100A link with a small range (couple o' volts) if you have it, 20V if that's the smallest available. Shouldn't be more than say 1/4 - 1/2 volt tops, and I would hope a lot less. Then, to double-check - and use a different meter range - set the meter to 20V, then with the black on ground, touch the red to one, then the other side of the 100A link (14ish volts presumably). Then, take the difference between those two values to get the voltage across the link. Should be around the same as across the link, but the meter may not be all that accurate at very low values. If you can have the idle up a bit, that's more realistic, but not entirely necessary.
So I'm still confused here because to my understanding the alternator SHOULD be throwing 14+ volts back at the battery through that 100 amp fuse. Am I wrong? (it may be the stuff underneath that is throwing a wrench in my understanding, so will study your blowup a bit more). I got a 15v reading across the 2 screws on that fuse with my digital (head and brakelights on), and just now I tested each side to ground with my analog and saw no detectable difference/loss, both sides showed near 15v. But unless I misunderstood, you are telling me there should only be a tiny voltage across it to begin with. So I want to get this possible misunderstanding cleared up so I'm less confusable.

I'm going to have to digest your last post a bit before moving on it, but I think I understand what you're getting at