Got my head back from the machine shop a few days ago. Head is resurfaced. The machinist also did a vacuum test on it, and told me that it was leaking a little bit, but probably not necessary to do a full valve job.

I did want to address the leakage with some lapping though. So I did a water test to figure out which valves were leaking and found that most of my intake valves were pretty good, but nearly all of my exhaust valves were leaking a little bit. I spent the last few days lapping my exhaust valves so they could seal better. Also changed out my valve stem seals while I was at it.

Here were the tools I used.



From left to right:

a) paper towels - to act as a cushion for my home-made valve spring compressor. Also to clean oil and valve grind compound off.
b) 17mm socket - put this underneath the valves I was working on, so that it could be as a counter-balance for valve spring compressor
c) PVC pipe w/ center portion cut out - 2" long, 3/4" diameter. I used this as my valve spring compressor. Only cost me 51 cents at Home Depot.
d) magnetic pick up tool - when using the valve spring compressor, inserted this through the cut out portion touching keepers, to make sure keepers don't fly everywhere.
e) pick - this was used to take out the old valve stem seal.
f) 1/4" extension - on installing the keepers, this was used to keep the keepers in place, while I pressed down with the PVC pipe.
g) Permatex valve grind compound 80036 - $4 at the auto store.
h) power drill with 5/32" vacuum hose - only needed 6 inches in length to attach to the valve stem. Vacuum hose was $1.25 per foot.

I also originally bought a Lisle 21200 small lapping tool, which turned out to be complete crap. I would not recommend at all. The suctions didn't work, so they weren't even able to turn the valves. I ended up using the power drill method, which ended up being cheaper anyway.

I lapped all of my exhaust valves, and after a re-test of the water test, SUCCESS! No more leakage! I think I'm ready to install my cylinder head soon.