Wheel noise?

[abracadabra]

Yeah I am still KICKING myself on those hubs you linked too, Tim!!

I waited of course like everyone else and the suckers went up and up. What a bummer!

Anyway I haven't seen a deal as good as that so I ended up picking some up for $100 shipped, which isn't a great price ,but its not a terrible price either. I need to get it done and I was tired of waiting for the "dream" cheap set!

I'll update as I proceed, hopeufully in a week or two I'll have everything I need and if the snow continues to hold off then I can get the job done!

I was hoping to not have to buy a torque wrench, I totally lost the last one I bought, I know I need one but....

mark

[abracadabra]

I just checked for parts for the conversion with the Stealership.

I ordered the WabFab kit which covers alot of the stuff.

But for the gaskets/seals:

43422-60020 is apparently NLA
90311-66002 are $28 each? Is this is a crazy price? If I can buy these cheaper elsewhere I'd love to know about!

So now I just have to pick up a torque wrench and some grease and I'm good to go. End of next week will be the procedure!

mark

[timsrv]

Your dealer is a major rip-off. My guess is they don't sell the one gasket because there's not enough profit in it. That part number has changed, but it takes almost no effort for them to get an updated number. If you get these from Toyota, use an internet site like www.1stToyotaParts.com (there should be one like this closer to your location). Here's a copy/paste I got from their site:


GASKET FR AXLE OUTE [New Part# 4342260010]
Quantity: 1
List Price:$1.03
Your Price:$0.74


SEAL TYPE T OIL [New Part# 9031166002]
Quantity: 1
List Price:$19.08
Your Price:$13.76

It's possible that part is NLA from Toyota, but considering the wide range of applications, I'm guessing aftermarket would be readily available (and for less $$$). Check with your local Napa or other auto parts store. Stick to the stores that employ seasoned automotive oriented workers........Example: if a pimply kid asks "do you want fries with that?" you're in the wrong place. . Tim

[timsrv]

As you know I prefer genuine Toyota, but I'm not extremely loyal when it comes to parts like this. I just checked on www.rockauto.com and see that seal is available for a lot less than Toyota. Here's a copy/paste:

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0523500 More Info
[Front Wheel Seal]; All Wheel Drive [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 10 Remaining) $2.56

They didn't show the gasket, but I'm almost certain Napa or another competent parts store could get that. I agree it would be nice to have on hand before the job, but it's likely you won't need it. Chances are the old gaskets will come off intact. Just have a razor blade handy in case it sticks. With a little care I'm sure it could be saved.


Since you're going to be in there anyhow, it might not be a bad idea to consider the subject matter in this thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...nocking-in-4wd. Of course it will take a bit more effort to get the axle out, but if you're already that far in it might be a good idea. Have fun. Tim

[abracadabra]

Ah, I did end up picking up all the parts for a fraction of the price the dealership quoted. Thanks Tim!

I do have a question for folks, I read through the FSM today for the whole procedure that lies ahead. I think I have a good grasp on everything and have all the parts/tools I need, except one:

the manual mentions using a SST for getting the bearing grease seal in . What do I use for that?

I haven't checked the link in the last thread yet, I'm afraid to!!

thanks again folks!

mark

[timsrv]

I haven't checked the link in the last thread yet, I'm afraid to!!...........k

I hear you, but there's really nothing on these vans that's too bad. At least these were made to be serviced and not "throw-away" like a lot of modern stuff. I like www.1stToyotaParts.com and used to purchase almost everything from them. It's their shipping that sucks. I got a gasket once they could have put in an envelope and got it to me for the cost of a postage stamp. Gasket cost $3 but the shipping was $10. I also don't like the way they calculate shipping on other things. I forget the exact numbers but they calculate shipping based on a percentage of your total $$$ (not weight). I guess it works out okay in many cases but it sucks when you get a $500 part that only weighs a couple lbs. So then, the same rule should apply on heavy items.........right?, WRONG! they make you pay extra for those . Okay, so I realize I'm ranting......sorry, had to get it out. In the end it's all okay because due to their shipping policies I found a local dealership that beats their prices (partly due to my high volume purchases) .

As for SST tools, I have been working on Toyota vehicles for years and years and to date have only purchased 1 SST. It's kind of nice to have a special tool, but most of the time it's an unnecessary expense. I have a Bearing and Seal Driver Kit that works for many things (and works exceptionally well for this). Because I'm a professional tech, most of my tools (including this) are Snap-On or a similar grade, but for very occasional use I think Harbor Freight would be fine. For all I know theirs is every bit as good as the Snap-On??? If you don't plan on doing this again, then I wouldn't even spend the $35 on the cheap set. Just cut a chunk of 2x4 and lay it down on the seal and beat it down evenly. Once it's sitting mostly in the bore use your hammer to lightly tap directly on the outside edge of the seal. Work it around the periphery to keep it even and stop when it's flush with the hub. Tim

[djshimon]

This thread is awesome, thanks everyone for the contributions because I know I'll be going through my manual hubs at some point. But anyways, I used a 1 and 1/4 inch wooden dowel that I partially hollowed out to use as a bearing press for my pilot bearing-just sayin.

[abracadabra]

Yeah the 2X4 and hammer is right up my alley, I can make that happen!

mark

[abracadabra]

Man, I've been having bad luck getting the Aisin hubs! Missed out on a few good deals, then bought some and they never showed.

Anyway, since the issue is with the right front auto hub not disengaging, how hard would it be to remove the hub and just get it to release, put it back on, then at least be able to drive the van without the wheel engaged until I get the Aisin hubs.

Seems like I'm not gonna have to deal with snow until next winter so maybe I'll wait until I can find some cheap hubs.

Anyone mess with the auto hubs? Basically I just need to make it 2WD and i won't touch the 4WD until I get the manuals but the auto hubs seem complicated.......is the brake part sticking? Do I just remove the hub and check out the parts?


mark

[timsrv]

I never really messed with auto hubs except to see how far I could throw them. I'm really surprised you can't find them. I just checked your craigslist and found THESE for $60.

[djshimon]

I thought if you put it in reverse for ten feet it takes it out of 4wd. Not sure but it's worth a try, for free even. Maybe try it twice? I miss Jersey.

[abracadabra]

Tim I did see that listing, but those are for solid axle vehicles correct? I thought I needed the later 86-95 hubs.

I've looked on Craigslist, I've called scrapyards, I've hounded Ebay where you can get a pair for $125 plus but I'm trying to find them cheaper. I did and then they never showed. Bummer!

I'm going to look at the manual today and see whats involved w/ the auto hubs. Its not REALLY a can of worms I want to open but I'd really like to unlock the wheel.

I have tried reverse, I've gone on back country roads and tried reverse in varying speeds and distances, it won't unlock.

I can go into 4WD and the other wheel locks and unlocks.

mark

[timsrv]

Oh yeah, sorry I missed that. Everything seems pretty dry right now. There's some on eBay but the prices are high. There's the one set with a BIN for $89 but he's trying to pull a fast one and rape you for shipping. Then there's THESE but you have to wait and they'll likely go high.

If you need the van, then I'd just do what you said........just seems like a waste. Tim

[abracadabra]

I might have a lead on the hubs, but I'm still curious about unlocking the auto hub.

Now after looking over the FSM procedure on the auto hubs I know I DO NOT want to touch these things in regards to fix/overhaul.

But, if someone has successfully unlocked a wheel by some "shade tree" method involving a hammer or something, then I'd be interested in trying just to have the dang thing unlocked.

One thought I had was, if you lift the wheel off the ground and spin it backwards like its in reverse could you do something where you had someone hold the propellor shaft in place to try to unlock it? Could this damage anything? I'm just thinking there has to be a way to force the thing unlocked without thinking at all about making it functional.

mark

[timsrv]

I say take it off and survey the problem. Most of the time things become crystal clear once you can visualize. I'm sure you'll easily figure something out when you can actually see in there. Tim

[abracadabra]

Yeah I thought it would be a good idea to get it off and look at the mechanisms involved, however, after looking at the FSM the procedure isn't so straighforward....actually it looks a little scary to me, but, maybe its not so bad as it seems?

mark

[abracadabra]

Okay folks I FINALLY got the Aisin hubs, they're in my hands as we speak.

The only issue I have is there seems to be missing a small metal piece that fits in the rear of the hub.

I have one hub with both pieces and the other hub has only one. These pieces come out. Can I furnish a new one with the appropriate length/diameter steel rod? Do I even need it? I took a pic, the metal pieces fit in at 3 and 9 on the pic, mine at 9 is missing.

Gonna knock this procedure out w/ wheel bearing repack next Friday!!

mark

[timsrv]

Those are dowel pins or "locator pins". They're really not necessary but they help hold the hub in place while you're getting the cones and nuts put on. Arguably they do add strength to the hub, but the strength of the 6 studs is already overkill for the power of a 4yec. The automatic hubs probably still have them so just rob from those before you test out your throwing arm . Those hubs look a little gritty inside. Be sure to wash them out good with solvent (mineral spirits paint thinner works good) and blow them with air before greasing and assembling. Don't overdo it with the grease, just a light film is good. Tim

[abracadabra]

Man, this whole process has been crazy. The original Aisin hubs I picked up never showed up and the seller credited me, thats why I picked up the set seen in my last post.

Today the original ones showed up! Totally out of the blue. They're in better shape and not as gritty as the other ones.

I guess I'll sell the one set and keep the nicer ones and call it good.

Tim, I was wondering, when cleaning the hub do you soak the whole thing in spirits or just wipe it out w/ a rag?

thanks!

mark

[timsrv]

I use a drain pan along with a course bristle solvent brush. Submerge, splash, brush or whatever to clean it. Once the grit is gone blow dry with compressed air. Tim