My 5-spd 4wd van is sick. I am suffering similar symptoms. I have a bad miss in the upper 1/3 of the rpm zone, it seems more pronounced when climbing a grade. I was thinking TPS as a starting point, now after reading this thread I am hoping it is not fuel injector related. Any opinions? TPS is of unknown age and was definitely from pulled from a parts van.
When it happened to mine it was fine up until it wasn't. Then power started sucking bad (top speed on straight level was around 73) and at an idle it had a miss that would come & go. I narrowed down to #3 by pulling plug wires while idling (pulling 1, 2, or 4 would result in a stall but pulling number 3 had little effect). So I pulled all plug wires and cranked it for about 10 seconds. Then I pulled and inspected all the spark plugs. #1, 2, and 4 were wet with fuel but #3 was dry. When I split the manifold and checked injectors, there were some small debris in the screens of 1, 2, and 4, but #3 was plugged up solid. I used Gum-Out spray and compressed air to blow out the screens, then test fired them all by putting Gum-Out in the inlet area and using compressed air with my rubber tipped nozzle. I made a seal between the injector and my nozzle while my son applied 12V power to the wires (I had a new injector connector we used to test). After cleaning all injectors were firing and spraying, so I put in new seals, reassembled, and all was good again.
With mine, this was happening every 5k miles (give or take). After the 4th time I got serious about it and installed that aftermarket filter. That was almost 20k miles ago and van has been running fine ever since. I changed the filter element after the 1st 5k miles, but haven't touched it since. I have a fuel pressure gauge installed on the output side of that filter, and it consistently displays 42 psi when I'm at full throttle (still no flow issues)
A bad TPS probably wouldn't make the van run that bad. Over time perhaps, but not until things started getting fowled up due to long term rich running. A bad TPS could cause noticeable loss of power, but would not cause a miss. TPS failure is common on the van, so I would never install a used one (ever). I pretty much consider TPS replacement routine maintenance. I replace them every 100k miles whether they need it or not. If the van has more than 100k miles on it and I don't know history, I replace. Anytime I see a trouble code that could be caused by a failed TPS, I replace the TPS. Tim
Thanks for the input on the TPS. The symptoms appear quite similar you your clogged injector. Everything worked fine until it didn't. I am going to monitor it over the next tank or two of fuel, maybe try a fuel additive. It runs perfect until 60-65 mph. This engine has a exhaust leak and the original 200K clutch is on it last legs. It is really time to freshen up the engine that has been occupying my engine stand for the past 6 years and do a thorough overhaul and swap. Let the fun begin.....again.
What is the going rate to have Fuel Injectors Rebuilt? Does anybody want to offer a recommendation? The other engine that will get attention was trouble free with 190K on it when it was pulled. Thanks.
FYI Wix literature says their filter is 12 microns obviously the injectors screens are much finer.
From my understanding injector "rebuilding" is a farfetched term. The injectors do not come apart you can get a kit off of ebay which has filter screens, o-rings and pintle caps. If you you know someone with a ultrasonic cleaner you'll have "rebuilt" injectors. Yes they haven't been flow tested, that's where university of YouTube comes in. Just search for it.
After much research online I opened the hood looking at some hoses wrong and they all broke so along with buying stuff in town (part numbers and pictures very helpful mahalo!) I am trying to find out where else to throw money at a missing third cylinder. I pulled the plug wire to #3 and although good spark didn't seem to change the running like crap although pulling other wires did (made worse). I'm getting 10 blinks then 11 then 10 then 11etc. In diagnostic mode.
If I'm reading the .pdf Tim posted right its the
Starter signal and switch signal? Don't see how those have anything to do with a cylinder miss/rough idle. Intake hose has a slight crack where tim pointed out but upon inspection it does not appear to have compromised the airseal.
Having a great time bringing this thing back to life. Some thing started buzzing around the maf a few days ago and sometimes I loose a half gallon coolant (not boiling over) and sometimes I'm completely full next morning after running all day. These rigs shore do have personalities
Mahalo nui loa
Code 10 is likely a fluke and probably doesn't mean anything. I'd clear codes and then see what (if anything) comes back. I'm guessing code 11 will come back and that usually means a bad TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). If you have spark on #3, but no fire, then it's likely you have a clogged or bad injector and/or a messed-up injector connector. Pull that spark plug and check it for fuel (I'm guessing it will be dry).
For whatever reason, when there's contaminants in your fuel system, they always seem to end up in the inlet screen to #3 injector. If that's it, unfortunately you'll need to remove the upper half of your intake manifold and your fuel rail to remove and test/clean injectors. This job can take an experienced mechanic up to 6 hrs to complete, so unless you're a mechanic, I'd count on it taking up your entire weekend. If you do find excessive debris in that injector, I would highly recommend upgrading your fuel filter to something like I did here: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...3388#post13388
Due to a contaminated fuel system, I was plugging up my #3 injector every 5k miles. After the 4th time of tearing down, cleaning the injector, and putting back together, I finally got rid of the stock fuel filter and replaced with aftermarket (linked to above). Since then I've put over 25k trouble free miles on the van. I can't say for sure this is your issue, but based on the information given it sure sounds like it. Good luck. Tim
Thanks for the help, Tim.
I need to address the manifold anyway so it looks inevitable but I need a little more time to gather parts and hope it is just the tps and some other vacuum issues for now.
Cleared the codes and still getting 10 blinks then 11 then 10 then 11.
I used gorilla tape around the air intake hose cracks to see if I can't just keep it going for a little while longer before rebuild. I'm on an island as mentioned and just getting to the town where parts usually have to be ordered can take all day.
A while ago I did find the cover to the tps had fallen off and was just sitting on the manifold!
Also the sensor right above #3 spark plug I found to have only one wire going to it. The other had broken off.
Thanks again for this sit I can only imagine how many more vans are on the road today because of it.
See a lot of users in the p.n.w. ...used to live close to oly and spokane man! Big aloha to the p.n.w. from your neighbors out in hawaii
hello everyone,
i am a first time owner, i just bought this van in its current non running state. hopefully someone can help out ive tried a lot allready with no success.
its a 1985 van manual transmission.
it starts and runs for about a second or two then starts to sputter and shake and dies. it will keep doing this if i keep trying. i can keep it running with brake cleaner through a vacuum hose on the throttle body.
fuel pressure is is good even as it stalls
injectors are receiving pulse via noid light
injectors are clicking
spark is present but is yellowish not blue
afm is within specs
all relays are within spec
all fuses are good
any ideas, thanks in advance
SOLVED THIS:
in case anyone ever comes across this situation
the fuel tank must be rusted out there was tons of rust dust plugging up the injectors
going to need a new fuel tank and flush the entire fuel system out ):
Last edited by yodavan; 09-10-2016 at 03:38 PM.
A new mystery with Cylinder #3 86 LE 4Y
Van started running rough 3000 miles after rebuilt engine. All plugs, wires, rotors, distributor cap replaced at time of engine overhaul.
#3 plug full of crap when pulled. Never got wet. Replaced all injectors with new. Still no #3.
Plenty of spark on 3, plug is now real wet, compression is good at 178. #3 won't fire.
We are really stuck on this one. Anyone have any ideas?
MT
Did you replace the spark plug on #3 after replacing the injectors? If not, do it. Sparking while the plug is out of the cylinder is not the same as sparking inside the cylinder. Compression and atomized fuel create resistance, so if the plug does have a problem it may spark fine outside the cylinder, but maybe not while installed. Tim
Thanks Tim for responding.
Yes, tests with and without plug were made. No issues there.
Even replaced the plug again with no help
Spark plug wires replaced during rebuild but mechanic told me that he did notice #3 had some yellow in it thinking it may have over heated at one point. But still all spark is fine until used with cylinder. Compress looks fine also.
Plug comes out wet every time they pull it to check.
This is so old school yet nobody can figure it out.
Any chance the ECU has the injection on all the time and it is flooding the cylinder extinguishing the spark?
Again, thanks again for the response Tim. I am without a vehicle.
MT
These engines are batch fire fuel injection. If #3 injector was flooding due to improper electrical trigger, so would #1.Originally Posted by MyToy
In addition to compression, spark, and fuel, the engine also needs proper timing, both mechanical (chain), and ignition (dist).
Also, a blown head gasket can introduce coolant to the cylinder and prevent spark. Make sure the plug is wet with fuel and not coolant.
If you have fuel, spark, and compression, then it should be firing. Even if it's too much fuel, it should still fire. If it's way too much fuel, then the compression would drop due to the fuel washing the oil out of the rings and the cylinder walls. I highly doubt the ECU would be to blame for anything, but who knows. If you haven't already done it.....or even if you have, I would start double checking everything. If you still have your old parts (cap, rotor, wires, etc), I would swap those out one by one to see if the problem changes or goes away. Tim
Thanks guys. This will be a big help.
Will keep you posted. All closing down here now at 5 PM. Will pick it up in the morning.
Again, thank you to all
MT
Just an update on this.
We did verify that the term "wet" meant fuel. There is no water and you can smell it coming out of the exhaust.
The transmission pan started to leak so that was done Tues while they noodled over this one.
They will start again on the cylinder 3 issue this morning. Their first test now will be to measure the amount of voltage on #3's HV cable while it is running and at different RPMs. They are expecting it to peak out about 50KV if it is right. They will do a comparative analysis with the other 3 wires at the same time.
That is all we have as of this morning. Will keep you posted as things progress today.
MT
I'm just thinking way outside the box. If the cam and lifters were not broken in properly after the rebuild it is possible that the intake lobe on that cylinder is going flat. The intake valve could be opening enough for good compression numbers while cranking, but not enough for proper compression while running. I only thought of this because you mentioned only 3,000 miles since rebuild. If not properly broken in a flat tappet cam will go flat really quick.
Just an idea. Good luck!
More updates. HV OK. Nothing is making sense. I was told they were going to mark the balancer and check the ignition timing for each cylinder. What that means I have no clue!
MT
By marking top dead center for each cylinder on the balancer they can check the timing of the spark individually for each cylinder. This would tell them if the timing is consistent for all cylinders, and if #3 is too far advanced or retarded to actually fire.
In addition to ignition timing I would also check mechanical timing, and make sure no cam lobes are going flat.
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