The 3y is a 2.0 liter and was only used in 84-85 vans. The 4y is a 2.2 liter and was used in 86-89 vans. The 4y is also used in forklifts. These are the only applications for these engines in the US market, but foreign markets may have used them in other vehicles. Tim
I got the first batch of hoses in and started putting them on my manifold. The Toyota hoses go on in a snap as someone said but the first bulk hose I have tried is a real bugger. I took in a piece of hose to the auto parts store and this is what they sold me. Could someone take a look at the photos and tell me if I am trying to put the wrong hose on here.
It was the closest size they had and the guy said it was what I wanted. It says "multi fuel compatible" does that mean it is OK. I have some hose here from a motorcycle project that says "not for fuel injection." I am wondering if I need some kind of special line or something?
The photos show the hose, where it goes, (by the way the piece looks long because I have not trimmed it yet), a comparison of old and new where you can see the hole size. I realize the bulk hose is harder to get on but this was almost ridiculous. The shot where the hose is finally on took some lube (rubber conditioner... Meguires) and about 20 minutes of sweat and it still isn't on there good. Am I just a weakling?
If the hose doesn't fit easily then I'd look for a different piece of hose. You may have to go to another parts store to find it. The one in your picture doesn't need to be rated for fuel injection as it's just a vacuum line. Tim
Thanks Tim. That was what I was wondering but it seemed to big to be just a vacuum. I will check another store.
I thought today I was going be riding into the sunset on this project but not so much. I think I have everything back right. Almost. It seems I have an extra part. Maybe someone can draw a line to where it goes in this picture.
I was a little apprehensive to try to start it because I couldn't remember where this part went and also because I was the mechanic but I tried and it runs!!!I only ran it for a few seconds but it seemed to purrrrrr for those seconds.
The thing that kept me from driving it thought was this. As I was putting the coolant in I heard a trickle and found this. I remembered when I put the hose on the radiator felt a little soft. Am I looking at a new radiator or can I get this repaired successfully?Shoot!
That little piece is a support bracket. It goes between the upper and lower intake manifolds and also provides a mount for the cold start injector line. It would probably be okay without it but there's a small chance of stressing something due to vibrations (over time) if it's not there. You are lucky it's the front bracket and not the rear one. It should be easy to put on..........Here's a picture showing the correct location.
That's a bummer about the radiator. Looks like it will need to come back out again. Just take the radiator and the broken nipple down to a radiator shop and they should be able to repair that for you. I'd probably have them remove a tank and inspect/rod it out while it's there. I'm guessing the repair, inspection, rodding out, will cost around $100 - $150. I'd ask them to beef it up a bit in this area so it doesn't happen again. Tim
Perfect! Now my memory is coming back. Glad it is in the front!
Can't I get a new radiator for about that cost? The volvo radiator I bought about a year ago was only 150.00 new. Do they re-manufacture these in plastic?
I am sure I can figure it out but do you know of a good thread that covers radiator removal?
Thanks Tim. It is so helpful to be able to ask an expert. I will be donating again very shortly. I would be lost without this site.
I've never purchased a new 3y radiator, but from what I've heard the only ones available new are junk. I think Gwen (llamavan) has been down this road so perhaps she'll chime in here with a solution and/or place to buy. Personally I let the radiator specialists tell me what to do. If they say replace then I purchase from them. Since cooling is so important, I always ask if there's any upgrades available. Sometimes they can add another row of cooling core and/or install a higher efficiency unit. Depending on what they can do it could cost as much as $450 (for the works) but I'd consider it money well spent. If you're on a shoestring budget, then go with repair (or the minimum they recommend). TimOriginally Posted by Spindrift
Toyota rads for the 3Y vans are NLA.
There are plastic-tanked aftermarket rads still available, but I wouldn't put one in MY van if you paid me.
CSF aka Cooling Systems and Flex (which has metal tanks) has apparently quit making the 3Y rads also, but I could be wrong (and hope I am). But ... all the retail internet sources that I found fessed up that they don't really have any after I tried to buy one.
I did recently score a NOS CSF rad for a 3Y van on eBay after looking a very, very long time. But that doesn't help you (other than clarifying that finding one is probably not a "next day" or "next week" kind of thing).
Gwen
1985 5-speed window cargo van set up for llama haulin'; 345K ("Trustyvan")
1989 4WD 5-speed DLX; 410K and an odd sense of humor ("Skylervan")
Thanks for the feedback. I just removed the radiator and it feels so frail! the top strip of metal came off one side and one 1/4 row of those little squiggely things is lifting off the same side. It doesn't look good to me. I will take it to the radiator shop and see what happens.
In the meantime. I found a couple of the last hoses I have the parts for but had not found. There is a whole other world to explore in front of the radiator huh? What are those other two radiator type things? Do I need those? Oil coolers or something? I thought maybe of one was associated with the air conditioning maybe I would get better air flow without it?
Anyway I am off to the radiator shop.
Your front heater core is mounted right above the floor boards in the very front of the van. There are 2 heater hoses (one with an in-line valve) that go to it. Everything else up there is either power steering or air conditioning. There's also one vacuum line that goes to the brake booster in the very front. Tim
I got my radiator back from the shop. It turned out it was pretty bad so I ended up replacing the core. The new core + the maintenance ran me 245.00. Here is a shot of it posing next to my freshly painted wheels.
After I got the radiator in and put in the fluids I started it up. It fires right up and then seems to struggle. It sounded way better before I stated this project. I must have a vacuum hose out of place or worse. At least it doesn't smell like it is ready to go up in flames. I probably jumped the gun putting the seats back in. I am guessing I probably should have adjusted the timing and at least checked the plugs.
One thing that kind of worries me is that I got the #1 and #3 injector wires crossed (the first two you can see). I never marked the wires (!!) and I think I assumed the wire that best reached would be the right one but I think there is a chance I did this. Would the engine run at all if I did? I can still get to those first two connections if someone thinks that is a possibility.
The other things that are circled are confusing me also could someone tell me what these round things do? I don't think I have the hoses right do I?
The bigger of the two has a hose from the bottom that is short and connects directly below it correct? I couldn't find a diagram to help me here.
Here is a closer photo.
Could I have damaged the smaller plastic one by cleaning it. Speaking of the alternator and/or some of the bits by the fan in the front of the engine seem nosier since I did this work. Could it be because I cleaned it (SuperClean)? Maybe all the grease was good for it.
And here is a short clip of me starting the engine. My iPhone does not do the best with sound but here goes. By the way I just hooked up the accelerator which is why I pushed on that to rev the engine. Can anyone tell by sound what might be wonked up?
Last edited by Spindrift; 06-23-2012 at 05:31 PM.
Just a quick update. I started it up a couple of times today to take notes. It is pretty consistent when it is cool. It starts right up and sounds good (to me) then about 6 seconds into it it starts struggling and if I don't give it gas it will die. Sound familiar? Also, I don't know if it is me but it seemed to run a little better today than it did in the video. Seems like it maybe is smoothing out. The exaust didn't seem as inconsitant. When I first started the new pastic and the special grease Dr. Injector gave me smoked and gave an aweful smell but it doesn't do it now. Could it be that the fuel lines just have air and that some of that initial plastic burn off was making it run rough? It really does seem to be a little better.
If anyone knows of a couple of vacumme hoses I could have gotten confused please chime in.
I could see maybe getting the wires for injectors 1 & 2 reversed, but it would be pretty hard to get any of the others mixed up. I can't imagine getting 1 & 3 mixed up. The length of wires on the harness would make that very difficult.
Those 2 round things in the back of the engine are your EGR valve & EGR modulator. From what I can see in the picture they look to be hooked up correctly. The modulator (plastic one) also has a hose on the bottom (can't see it in the picture). Make sure that one is hooked up.
I can't tell much from the video, but it sounds to me like a power steering noise. Did it do that before? Could be a cavitation noise due to low fluid??? You should have a vacuum line diagram sticker on the driver's side edge of the engine bay. If not I could probably conger one up for you. Tim
I usually hear that sound when I have my steering cranked all the way, but not quite as loud. Too bad we couldn't convert to Electric Power Steering. My Cobalt has it and I love it. Don't have to worry about fluid leaking. Other than that noise, the engine sounds like it's running ok. I don't think a 23-28 year old engine is ever going to run perfect. The 10% ethanol in the gas is pushing it because the manual basically says to use it only if you have to, and we don't have a choice now.
You have a good ear Tim. I was still adding fluids but I checked my power steering and it was way low.
So I took a quick spin down the block and have a new laundry list of issues. Biggest one "Where are my brakes!?!" Good thing it wasn't running great or I would be in trouble. I crawled back and was trying to find the brake fluid reservoir when I found a pretty major vacuum line off... one of the big ones that go into the valve cover (Duh!) it was hidden. While I was over there I checked the plug connections and one clicked -wasn't all the way on. It purrs like a kitty. I think I can put the injector thread to bed!
Now for the brakes WTF? What should I check first? I am under the gun now. To save face on this van purchase with my life partner I have to have it ready to explore Eastern Oregon by the weekend! The brakes didn't seem great but they were horrible on my little one block trip. I must have messed something up.
Was looking for a how to on brakes here but not really finding it. If someone knows of some good posts let me know.
Make sure this hose is hooked up correctly. This is the vacuum supply line for your power brakes. It should go from the metal tube on the firewall to the intake manifold. Tim
That's the hose! The one I found off. Maybe now my brakes work!?! I guess it was the spark plug wire that wasn't all the way on that was making it run rough.
By the way the engine purrs now!!!! Confirmed. And with the proper level ATF the noise has been reduced.
By the way the big long hose that goes to the power steering is about the only hose I have not replaced. It is hard as a rock and oozing a bit where it connects. I bet it is expensive with all those turns and added foam. Do you happen to have the part # for that?
I am going to go see if the brakes work now. I will report back shortly.
Awesome! If the power steering is still making noise, you might want to take a look at this thread: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...g-system-noise . That power steering hose is still available but the dealer will want around $140.00 for it. The discount sites like www.1stToyotaParts.com will want around $100.00. It's Toyota part #44348-28040. Some people get the bulk 5/8" I.D. hydraulic hose and use that, but I prefer the molded Toyota hose. It's hard to justify the cost but the fit is much better. Tim
I have a great running van with working brakes no less!Thank you to everyone that helped. I don't know how I would have done it without this site and everyone's patience. I know I wouldn't have had the guts to go in in the first place if I wouldn't have found this site.
So the take away on this is.
1) If the most you have ever done to a car is change oil or a thermostat this is doable provided you have this site and some patience. Take lots of pictures!
2) You can save a ton of money rebuilding injectors vs buying new. I was skeptical at first because my mechanic told me not to do it but after seeing the process it seems ridiculous not to have your original ones rebuilt unless you just like spending money. All of the non metal bits get replaced into the sonically clean shaft and 25.00 is cheaper than 225.00.
3) Fix ALL of the rubber while you are in there. Some of those hoses "look" fine but if they are from the 80' chances are they will crumble when you try to remove them and if you don't do it now they will crumble on their own - at the most inopportune time.
4) After installation go through and check all of the hoses and lines again. When you are done do it again. Be sure the hose in the last photo that Tim posted is connected or you might drive through the neighbors house.
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