Thanks For responding Burntboot.
At least by feel, the steering has always been straight, smooth, responsive, easy, and precise. The only problem that I'm aware of so far is that the rack is spewing fluid out of the end boots. I will buy the seal kit, start the repair and maybe get lucky. I will keep you all posted how it goes.
Hey Shanbot - Did you try to rebuild your rack yet?Originally Posted by shanbot
I've found very little info on rebuilding old toyota racks.
I've also been researching who is the best rebuilder of racks but I've yet to find anything conclusive.
Almost tempted to use Lucas or something....
Hey Foreverly,
If you're thinking about trying to do the steering rack rebuild DON'T! You really do need all the SST's (specialty tools) to do this job! I'm about halfway through the job now, I think MAYBE I will be able to finish it but I have had make many tools and dangerously fake it. I still haven't figured out how I'm going to remove the bearing guide nut in the control valve housing! I couldn't find anyone in the Portland Oregon area who could rebuild it for me. Knowing what I know now I would simply buy this-
http://www.carsteering.com/addtocart.../80-00553.html
It's not cheap (That's the selling point for me) but it beats the hell out of my current battle which has turned out to be so complicated I might end up having to buy it anyway!
Does anyone have a copy of the recall they can send to me or post here so I can download it?
It's Toyota Special Service Campaign SSC K01.
Here you go:
1. Vehicles involved:
2. Vehicles involved Note: Although the involved vehicles are within the above VIN ranges, not all vehicles in these ranges were imported to the United States. The enclosed special service campaign dealer/owner list (SSC K01) indicates each customer's name, address and vehicle identification number that are
involved in this campaign in your area. You may also utilize this valuable list for your future follow-up system.
3. Repair procedures Refer to the attached Technical Instructions.
4. Parts ordering As with all campaigns, necessary parts must be ordered from your facing Parts Distribution Center. In order to avoid excessive parts orders and maintain adequate parts inventory, it is highly recommended that your initial parts order of the the bevel
gear assembly does not exceed 5% of the number of the vehicles indicated on the enclosed special service campaign dealer/owner list (SSC K01).
5. Reimbursement procedures Submit special service campaign claims following the procedures described in the Toyota Warranty Policy & Procedures Manual. The operation code to be used for this campaign is listed below. *For operation code 950021 a charge of $.71 for liquid sealer should be entered in the sublet column. Note: The above operation code includes 0.1 flat rate hour for administrative expenses. Please review this entire package with your Service and Parts staff to familiarize them with the proper step-by-step procedure and implement this special
service campaign to ensure customer satisfaction.
There's more information here: http://www.toyotavantech.com/forum/s...ng-bevel-gears
So if I print out this thread, a local toyota dealer should do my recall? If I call the number in the other thread, can they email it to me or do they notify the dealership?
"Should" being the operative word. By law there is no expiration on safety recalls. However, due to ignorance and/or lack of motivation, some dealerships may refuse. You could probably push the issue, but if there's another dealer within your range, I'd probably try them before making a big deal out of it. Your van has to be within the VIN numbers on the list to qualify & has to be in Toyota's system as "not previously completed". Tim
Gushaman,
did you follow up at the dealer with the recall?
thanks
So has anyone done a rack rebuild(successfully) or replaced the seals in the 4wd steering rack? What happened to your rebuild Shanbot? I have a leak on the passenger side inner rod and I'm about to buy the rebuilt rack from carsteering.com but figured I'd check one last time. I may take it to the Line-up shop here in Portland and see if they'll possibly do some seals for me as I'm sure I don't have any SST's and they've been pretty good for alignments before.
Ok looks like my rack in my 4WD needs to be replaced, I van wants to go left all the time and I've have an alignment done and replaced both tie rods, the rack isn't leaking or anything like that but just wants to steer left. The mechanic said the rack is going bad. So I was looking to get a rack from carsteering but was wondering if shanbot or djshimon ended up buying the rack and how have they lasted
I showed my service advisor the website and he said he hadn't heard of them but if I ordered the rack he would put it in but if it didn't fit or gave me problems down the road then I would have to pay to pull it again.
He ordered and rack for a 2WD van that's sitting on the lot but it'll be 3 weeks to get the rack in and for that van it'll be roughly $780 but he mentioned it'll be a little more for my 4WD van.... OUCH!!!
Thank you
JDM
Typical rack failure would be blown seals and/or excessive slop and/or binding. One would not typically blame a rack for a "pulling" problem. I guess there might be some exception I haven't run across yet, but I sort of doubt it. Pulling problems are typically started by alignment issues. Once tires develop certain wear patterns correcting the alignment may or may not correct the pulling problem. In most of these cases it's the tire wear issue to blame (cause & effect). If/when correcting alignment doesn't solve the pulling, it can usually be solved by diagonally rotating tires. If your rack is not leaking or otherwise damaged I would definitely try the easy stuff before replacing it. Good luck. Tim
PS: If you do end up replacing the rack for nothing more than a pulling problem, don't throw it away........save it for me (I'll take it).
Tim
thanks for the quick reply, I agree with you on the pulling problem being an alignment issue rather then a worn rack, but I'm going on the word of the service advisor who hasn't "steered" me wrong all these years. I think I'm going to have to pull my retired MasterTech out of retirement for a second opinion on this one, I don't wanna have to spend that kinda money, I'm still trying to get those BFG tires for those Supra rims but something always comes up!!
I took in new OEM camber bolts that I ordered just in case there was an alignment isssue and they needed the spare parts but they didn't use them.
If I end up having to replace the rack I need to return the core to get some money back on an already expensive job otherwise I was also planning on holding on to it.
JDM
I'm with Tim on this one, never seen a steering rack be the source of a pulling problem.
Broken or loose rack mountings maybe, but not the rack itself. (IIRC, that topic was covered some years ago.)
Swapping the tires around, as Tim suggests, is the first order of business.
While you're swapping the tires, make sure all the wheels spin freely.
I have seen too many cars get $$$ fr end work, only to have a rear brake service solve the "pulling" issue.
Just saying - there's lots of things to inspect before jumping to the least likely fault first.
And you can do the tire swapping in the driveway, at no cost other than time spent.
Did you get a printout from the alignment?
BB
Just saw your other post about the brakes, perhaps that has all variables have been addressed but I would still spend the hour swapping tires and test driving in between, as it is cheap peace of mind.
BB
My 4WD van pulled to one side when the left rack mount cracked but I don't remember which direction it was pulling. My steering wheel also became further and further off center when driving in a straight line. I know others on here have mentioned having issues with these cracking as well.
I never bought another rack-when I took it in for an alignment they said it was fine and not leaking. I looked and it doesn't leak, maybe something was dripping down on it. When I got it aligned it pulled the other direction than when I had brought it in and I went back to ask what was up and they said probably the tires causing the pull to one side. Got new tires which I needed anyways and she runs straight as an arrow!
Tim, BB, Original,
thank you all for your valued inputs and experience in this area, I do agree it's a alignment issue, when I first got the van it always pulled slightly to the left, I took it into Les scwab for an alignment but they couldn't budge the camber bolt... ( I believe it was the camber bolt) even with heat and hitting it with a hammer it wouldn't move so they left it alone.
Moving forward with the tie rods just being replaced by my other shop, they did an alignment afterwards but that one bolt wasn't adjusted. I'll have to look for the work order to see what it exactly said about the alignment.
I just had the left caliper replaced that was siezed up which I thought was the main culprit of the hard left pull, but after the replacement it feels like its back to the way it was when I first got the van.
BB,
All the tires are brand new, maybe about 3500 miles on them, I think I'll take it in to Les Schwab for a free tire rotation and see if that helps.
original,
so did you replace the broken mount and it corrected the problem?
I'm not trying to go off the topic of the steering rack thread, just wanted to give some back story of the issue and was trying to see if anyone has had any experience with a new rack from carsteering, I'm not trying to buy a new rack not unless that's the absolute only way to go and right now it doesn't look like there's a strong case to replace.
Thanks guys
JDM
Ok I took a look at the work order and it stated-
"Camber and toe are ok and the caster was not adjustable at this time"
I'm thinking it's been the caster even when I took it to Les Schwab and they couldn't adjust it. That's gotta be the pull issue and not the steering rack.
JDM
original,
so did you replace the broken mount and it corrected the problem?
My brother and I welded it up and added a gusset. It's been fine since.
JDM - Has it always pulled, as long as you've owned it or is this something new?
Can't remember if Caster is adjustable on the van, but if its off and it hasn't seen any impacts, I would take a closer look at control arm bushings/ball joints.
Having the printout from the rack is ideal, as it lets you see just how everything has been dialled in.
All specs come with an acceptable range (i.e. +/- 2 degrees), ideally you won't to be at the midpoint of a spec, but some techs are perfectly happy to just be "within spec", yet they could still have a 4* differential, side to side, which can cause all sorts of problems.
Caster will only induce a pull if it isn't even (L vs R)
Have you rotated the tires yet?
BB
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