Quote Originally Posted by timsrv View Post
I'm sure I made at least one "long winded" post previously in this thread explaining how to measure/adjust valve geometry. Not sure how it could be off, but something is making a racket. No way to know for sure until you measure for lash (excess play) at each rocker/push-rod. If it is off, then the simplest solution would be to get custom push-rods (pretty sure I gave a link or 2 previously). FYI, this is not a common issue, but I've run into it before. It's usually caused by a machinist who wasn't properly trained and/or wasn't aware these valves are non-adjustable. If it's an aftermarket head, it's also possible there's dimensional errors in the height of the rocker arm mount bosses. Maybe the wrong lifters??? (who knows). Whatever the reason, if it's loose valves, then you'll need to have some custom work done. Over my career as a mechanic, I've only ran into this once. It was on a Ford 460 (also hydraulic lifers with non-adjustable rockers). In that case I was able to shim each rocker stud to obtain correct geometry.

That engine had individual rockers/fulcrums though. Since the 4y uses a common rocker shaft, the only way to adjust would be with custom length push rods. With some careful measurements, math, and some custom push-rods it could be dialed in. Of course that's assuming it's a valve lash issue causing all that racket. Tim
Tim, as always thank you for your advice. I am still not sure how I can check for lash on this thing other than seeing if a feeler gauge fits under the valve spring side of the rocker arm (since the pushrod sets inside of a recess in the rocker arm). You said these things are zero lash, which makes since, therefor there should be no clearance between the rocker arm and either the pushrod or valve spring? The lifters have measured and replaced the lifters (I actually have 2 different sets from different manufactures) and it made not difference.

Quote Originally Posted by Burntboot View Post
Terrance - Everything Tim says is spot on (no surprises there)

All I can add is my own experiences, I once had a customer with a 22R that had replaced his own VC gasket.
It kept leaking and he kept tightening. Brought it in with a sound just like yours.
Replace the A/M gasket and torqued to spec and all noises went away (valve train had been hitting the cover due to the over torqued, cork gasket)

Have you gone over it with a stethoscope? I would want to nail down just where the sound is emanating from, before doing anymore explorative surgery.

Way, way back, we had a customer that used a TV for drug store deliveries. That van led the hardest life of all.
At one point it bent a pushrod (don't remember the specifics of how or why) but as it was a weekend repair and had no parts available, we ended up swapping in a SBC pushrod, had to cut it down a wee bit and brazed the ball back on.
I never expected it to work for long but they put another 100K on it with no issue.
Pretty hack stuff and not something I would recommend, more just a food for thought type of thing.

Given how loud it is you should be able to at least track where the noise is coming from, that will be half the battle.
The valve cover gasket caused an issue? I'm guessing something to do with crank case pressure? I can take my oil fill cap off and it doesn't make a bit of difference to the way my engine runs. I don't have a stethoscope but maybe I should invest in one..